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Lonely Planet : Pocket guides for quick, easy and accessible information for a short break Italy's largest sea port is indefatigably contradictory, full at once of grandeur, squalor, sparkling light and deep shade. The city's oncetatty port area now hosts museums and a number of eating and drinking options. Its old town, too, has had its own far more organic revitalisation, with a bright new crop of fashionable shops, restaurants and bars lighting the way. Special features include: Pull-out city map Full-colour pocket-sized guidebook The best walking tours